Bouillabaisse, Cioppino or Zuppa da-Pesca and Paella These are traditional French, Italian and Spanish versions of the same dish: a fish soup-stew, which is served as a main dish accompanied by a green salad and plenty of crisp French or Italian-style bread.  Paella dates from the 14th Century, is supposed to have been created by a Spanish king who would obviously have been happier as a chef (just as Louis XVI of France ought to have been a carpenter). The name is a corruption of "Para Ella," because it was dedicated to the king's mistress-of-the moment. Paella combines chicken and sweet sausage with shellfish and rice. It will take every blessed minute of your quick-cookery allotment, plus plenty of preparation in advance—and perhaps it should not be included here, but it definitely belongs with Bouillabaisse and Cioppino. Bouillabaisse depends primarily upon several kinds of fish, both firm and soft-fleshed, with a modest addition of lobster and clams. Literal translation of Bouillabaisse is "boil-stop" —and the secret of the dish lies in fierce boiling, exactly as directed. Another secret is the combination of fish; an authentic Bouillabaisse de Marseilles (where the dish was originated) uses at least seven different kinds of fish, and many of them are varieties unobtainable in our country. In making a bouillabaisse, however, remember that the flavors of several different kinds of fish must predominate; the shellfish are added merely as window-dressing. Cioppino, or Zuppa da Pesca, is exactly opposite from Bouillabaisse. Here, you wish the flavors of shellfish to predominate, and the bits of softer fish are the window-dressing.  The cooking method of Cioppino is slightly more leisurely than for Bouillabaisse, but a final period of fierce boiling will make the smooth mixture of oil and liquid for the soup. Paella (2 Steps) 1 dozen cherrystone clams 1 box each: frozen peas and artichoke hearts 1 large tin canned tomatoes 1 box cleaned frozen shrimp 2 small sweet Spanish or Italian sausages Diced meat from one small chicken (pre-cooked) 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup chopped onions 1/2 tsp each: tarragon, oregano, chervil, salt, paprika, chives 1/2 tsp saffron(soaked in 1 T hot water) 1/4 tsp pepper 2 cups consomme 1 cup quick-cooking rice 1 minced clove garlic Step 1:  steam the chicken (or cook in a pressure-cooker); cool slightly and dice the meat.  Slightly undercook peas, artichoke hearts, and shrimp. Step 2: saute onions and garlic in olive oil. Add consomme, rice, seasonings, chicken, tomatoes and sliced sausages. Cover and simmer 10 minutes, checking occasionally to stir and add extra consomme if needed.  Add peas, artichoke hearts, cooked shrimps, and place well-scrubbed clams on top. Cover tightly and steam for 10 minutes or until the clam shells open. Serve with strips of pimiento for decoration.  Real Spaniards use: eels, lobster, crabs, fried eggplant sticks and oysters, mushrooms—any or all Paella is one of the great dishes, to be made with whatever is available.